Articles

La Route des Grandes Alpes

From Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean Sea

Published: October 2010

At the start of the twentieth century great technical progress was being made everywhere, especially in roads, thus opening up the Alps to mass tourism. The Touring Club de France initiated works on the Great Alps Route in 1913 and over the following decades, interrupted by wars, the route was linked up, with the Cormet de Roselend pass finally being opened in 1970, linking Thonon les Bains on Lac Leman to Menton on the Med. Today this route presents a challenge to motorists, motorcyclists and especially cyclists from all round the world.

Earlier this year Ray Bennett suggested that I join him on a trip organised by Bike Adventures, a small commercial cycling holiday company run by a guy he knew and on some of whose previous trips he had helped out. Having been on many CTC organised holidays before I needed reassurance that this commercial venture was at least as well organised as those and thus it proved to be. Brilliant daily route instructions, good hotels and a back up vehicle to carry heavy luggage, together with a cycling 'sweeper' riding behind the last person on the road to ensure that no one was mislaid.

My initial thoughts were that this would be a very tough ride and, no longer being in the first flush of youth, if I wanted to do this great challenge I had better do it sooner rather than later. Also, I had better take my dedicated touring bike as it had a very low bottom gear, (26 granny ring on the triple chainset and 26 rear sprocket), plus it had a rear rack so that I could take a bag in which I could carry cold/wet weather gear and gloves. I have ridden all over the world and learned the lesson that you cannot take chances in high mountains and being inadequately dressed on a cold, wet mountain descent can be disastrous.

And so we set out on a bright and beautiful day from Thonon on the first of seven days continuous riding. Beautiful weather, great views and the first gentle col, the Col de Jambez (1027m) made the going feel good. Our destination was La Clusaz but first we had to tackle the Col de la Columbiere (1613m). I'm sure I had ridden this climb before but when we were into the last 5k it suddenly seemed much harder than I remembered and for the first of many times on this trip I was down into my bottom gear and grinding away. At the summit cafe in discussion with others with high tech gear such as GPS systems I realised that much of the last 5k were at anything between 8 - 12 % gradients. No wonder it felt hard! Then the glorious descent, feeling glad I'd brought the warmer clothes with me. Through Le Grand Bornand to La Clusaz where the hotel was situated about three miles out of town up the Col des Aravis. At least it would be three miles less to climb in the morning. 57 miles covered.

Day two, very cool, wet roads, low cloud and light rain. At least we'd done the first three miles of the col. On the descent of the Aravis to Flumet the weather started to brighten and the sun came out on the Col des Saisies (1650m). Still very cool on the descent though but great views towards Mont Blanc. Through Beaufort the 12 mile climb of the Cormet de Roselend began. Past the lake and it got colder and harder towards the summit (1968m). Full winter gear on then for the 12 mile descent to Bourg St Maurice. 56 hard miles, total 113.

Day three. A beautiful but tough ride over the highest pass in Europe to the little town of Aussois. The weather was now gorgeous and clear if cool on the summits. The first 21 miles of the ride took us up to the ski resort of Val d'Isere, then right through to begin the final 10.5 mile climb to the top of the Col d'Iseran at 2770m. A very steep and tortuous descent followed through some of the most dramatic scenery imaginable. Continuing to descend along the valley at the bottom we had to turn off the main road to climb again for about 3 or 4 miles to Aussois, for me the hardest part of the day, I felt completely spent by the time I reached the hotel. 62 miles, total 175.

Day four. A 10 mile main road descent in cold but gloriously bright conditions to St Michel de Maurienne before turning left for the 5 mile climb up the Col de Telegraphe. Then a short descent into Valloire before the main business of the day, the Col du Galibier (2646m). Long and hard with the granny gear employed well before the top. But what views at the summit - glorious. A quick, steep descent past the Henri Desgrange (founder of the Tour de France) memorial to the top of the Col de Lautaret (2058m). A very fast main road drop into Briancon finished off another hard day. 61 miles, total 236.

Day five. The thirteen miles of climbing for the Col d'Izoard starts right out of Briancon. Through meadows and woods until you emerge out of the tree line before the Refuge Napolean for the final steep hairpins to the summit at 2360m. Just over a mile down the steep descent are the memorial plaques to Fausto Coppi and Louison Bobet where you then continue across the spectacular landscape of the Casse Deserte. Another very fast drop leads to the rocky gorge to Guillestre. It was by now very hot and after a light lunch the climb to the Col de Vars began. Miles more low gear grinding and the cafe at the summit (2109m) provided a very welcome cold drink. More steep hairpins on the descent at first and a more gentle ride along a valley completed the twenty miles from the last summit to the hotel in Barcelonnette. 64 miles, total 300.

Day six. A beautiful day today. After 22 miles the top of a really attractive climb through woods and a limestone gorge is reached - the Col de la Cayolle (2326m). The descent is through tunnels and finally meadows and valleys until the final climb of the day is reached, the Col du Vasson/Valberg (1762m). A gentle descent leads to the village of Beuil - the night stop. 54 miles, total 354.

Day seven. A gentle climb of the Col de la Couillole (1687m) starts the last day with the prospect of actually having more descending than climbing as we head for the Med. But not yet. Some wonderful cycling followed down through Valdeblore and St Martin Vesubie across rivers and through tunnels until the climb through a rocky gorge to the top of the Col du Turini (1604m). The long drop down from here was something to be remembered. You kept thinking you were almost there by now but at the town of Sospel there was a small sting in the tail - a five mile climb up the Col de Castillon (that seemed cruel!). But that was really it, all downhill to Menton and the Med. Straight past our hotel stop to the seafront where a beer was definitely in order before finally calling it a day. 80 miles, 434 miles in total.

My view overall? We were so lucky with the weather, a little rain near the beginning but then glorious sunshine all the way, really warming up as we got further south. It would have been a total misery in bad conditions. Truly spectacular scenery and there were many times I wished I had taken a lighter bike. But it was almost too hard and were I to go into the area again I would have one or two fixed centres and only do one major climb per day. Mind you, I'm not as fit, or young, as I was! C'est la vie, but at least I've done it.

The practicalities? Our bike were taken down in the vehicle so we just flew from Luton to Geneva on Easyjet. We were picked up at the airport and at the end dropped off at Nice airport for the flight back to Luton. Simple.

Dave Benger.